brake bleeding

Has anyone bled their brakes? I have never done it on any car. The charger dosen't see the track at all and I don't know if i really need to bleed the brakes since I have never opened up the brake system except for the master cylinder cap. If I do need to bleed the brakes, on the charger or any car, Is there a reccomened tool or bleeder kit to buy?

If there is a one-man method of doing it, I'd be very interested.

Why would you want to do that? If the brakes work, leave them be. Are you having braking issues?

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Why would you want to do that? If the brakes work, leave them be. Are you having braking issues?

I do have a brake issue that I hope bleeding will solve and he doesn't say that he intends to bleed his brakes. . .

crazy933 wrote:

. . . If I do need to bleed the brakes, on the charger or any car, Is there a reccomened tool or bleeder kit to buy?

The wife hates the way the car stops, she feels as if she has to press the pedal too hard. We have had squeeling issues forever with car and even after replacing the pads and rotors, yesterday I took the car out and re-bedded the pads and got rid of the glazing on the rotors. Now she says she is pressing too hard on the brakes. I've never bled brakes becasue i've never had to get out any air, I was wondering if the fluid has gotten too hot?

I don't know if bleeding will help you. My issue is that the first pump is mushy and then it firms up on #2.

Still valid question - is there a method that requires only one person to get the job done?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-One-man-brake-bleeder-kit/_/N-26qw?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=brake+bleeder&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=46839_0_0_

i saw this, don't know how good it is.

If i don't have to bleed them then I won't.

I may do them on my car, 128K miles, but then the bleeder screw may not move.

Thanks. I'll look into that.

Eric, how many miles on your car, Is it the charger that has issues?

My brakes started exhibiting this behavior right after I had the ceramics put on. The mechanic said that he didn't open the system and that there shouldn't be any air in there, but it's been my experience that mushy brakes that firm up in subsequent pumps is the result of air in the lines. I hope I'm right.

I'm going to obtain that kit from Autozone and give it a go nonetheless.

i bleed mine before every track day. Old fluid gets water in it from condensation and that lowers the boiling point. when brake fluid boils it gets air in the lines.

I use brembo EVO 500+ fluid.

I will be doing it again Saturday. I only use two man method.

Where do you get Brembo EVO 500+ fluid?

HiPwr wrote:

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Why would you want to do that? If the brakes work, leave them be. Are you having braking issues?

I do have a brake issue that I hope bleeding will solve and he doesn't say that he intends to bleed his brakes. . .

crazy933 wrote:

. . . If I do need to bleed the brakes, on the charger or any car, Is there a reccomened tool or bleeder kit to buy?

Well, excuse the fuck out of me, lol.

Illinois Chaos wrote:

HiPwr wrote:

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Why would you want to do that? If the brakes work, leave them be. Are you having braking issues?

I do have a brake issue that I hope bleeding will solve and he doesn't say that he intends to bleed his brakes. . .

crazy933 wrote:

. . . If I do need to bleed the brakes, on the charger or any car, Is there a reccomened tool or bleeder kit to buy?

Well, excuse the fuck out of me, lol.

rotflmfao!!!!

HiPwr wrote:

Where do you get Brembo EVO 500+ fluid?

i just buy it off amazon. they ship from buybrakes.com or something. its like 11 bux a bottle. about 2 bottles or just over should flush the whole system. then go out and make some normal stops followed by a hard stomp on the brakes to activate abs to purge any air from the abs module.

brembo makes 2 high temp fluids. evo 500+ is for factory brembo kits and the other one is not ment for our systems. the wet boiling point of brembo evo fluid is not much lower than its dry boiling point which is awesome. its wet boiling point is way above stock fluids dry boiling point.

on 2 year old stock fluid the first time i autocrossed my car the pedal went to the floor on the second lap. that told me all i needed to know about stock fluid. crap.

From what you've described, it sounds like you've recently had the brakes serviced, and there could be the possiblility that air did get into the line, since you usually need to depress the brake caliper to slide the pads over the rotor. If you did the brakes yourself, how did you depress the caliper? and where did you remove the excess fluid from? While i've never had a problem in the past, i have heard that on the ABS systems, you need to open the bleed port to remove the excess fluid without causing damage to your brake servo. Now, there is a way to do a one man brake bleeding, but im not exactly sure of the method and steps, but it involves using a jar and a plastic hose... and a good fair amount of brake fluid... You bascially, fill the jar about half way with brake fluid, stick the hose into the fluid and "prime" the hose like priming a pump, attach the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder, and start pumping, as you depress the pedal, the air will begin to push out, but won't suck air in on the upstroke of the pedal. I belive they sell a "One man bleed kit" at O'Reilly/Murray's and Autozone as well... Ill find out tomorrow about the one man bleeding process and see if i missed something...

If you do brakes on a car, just with pushing the piston in to fit the new pads in, air should not get into the system. IF it did get in the sytem, that means you have a leak, cause it would have to suck the air in and the piston was retracting, BUT then if that's the case, when you push the pedal down fluid would shoot out. Know what I mean, the only way air gets into the system is if the bleeder screw was opened, not bled properly, or if a caliper was replaced and again, if it wasn't bled properly.

I've HEARD you need to use the star scan I think it's called to properly bleed the system in our cars, so the ABS pump doesn't get a valve pushed backwards as the piston gets pushed back in. When you use the scanner, it actually pumps the fluid out usung the ABS system.

BUT I did a brake flush on my car a while back, and have never had any issues. So I gues if it DOES mess up you have to do it that way, if not and you get lucky then obviously you don't need the scanner to do it.

Moparcharger06 wrote:

If you do brakes on a car, just with pushing the piston in to fit the new pads in, air should not get into the system. IF it did get in the sytem, that means you have a leak, cause it would have to suck the air in and the piston was retracting, BUT then if that's the case, when you push the pedal down fluid would shoot out. Know what I mean, the only way air gets into the system is if the bleeder screw was opened, not bled properly, or if a caliper was replaced and again, if it wasn't bled properly.

I've HEARD you need to use the star scan I think it's called to properly bleed the system in our cars, so the ABS pump doesn't get a valve pushed backwards as the piston gets pushed back in. When you use the scanner, it actually pumps the fluid out usung the ABS system.

BUT I did a brake flush on my car a while back, and have never had any issues. So I gues if it DOES mess up you have to do it that way, if not and you get lucky then obviously you don't need the scanner to do it.

Thats some good info Adam. I heard as long as you dont let the brake fluid tank go dry, you shouldnt have a problem. Just keep topping it off after you bleed each caliper and you should be fine.

Moparcharger06 wrote:

I've HEARD you need to use the star scan I think it's called to properly bleed the system in our cars, so the ABS pump doesn't get a valve pushed backwards as the piston gets pushed back in. When you use the scanner, it actually pumps the fluid out usung the ABS system.

BUT I did a brake flush on my car a while back, and have never had any issues. So I gues if it DOES mess up you have to do it that way, if not and you get lucky then obviously you don't need the scanner to do it.

you don't need the starscan you just need to activate the abs with some hard stops afterward.

Ok good info i will not be bleeding the brakes.

Yes, all good info. I WILL be bleeding my brakes.

damn my new fluid showed up today already. shit shipped in like a day. now I'm just waiting on the SS brake lines and brembo rotors...

crossing my fingers that they get here by saturday. they shipped fed ex ground from SC yesterday...

jontoad wrote:

damn my new fluid showed up today already. shit shipped in like a day. now I'm just waiting on the SS brake lines and brembo rotors...

crossing my fingers that they get here by saturday. they shipped fed ex ground from SC yesterday...

Fed ex sucks bro, we have nothing but problems with them at work. Hopefully you get them by Friday

Shawn1112 wrote:

jontoad wrote:

damn my new fluid showed up today already. shit shipped in like a day. now I'm just waiting on the SS brake lines and brembo rotors...

crossing my fingers that they get here by saturday. they shipped fed ex ground from SC yesterday...

Fed ex sucks bro, we have nothing but problems with them at work. Hopefully you get them by Friday

just checked tracking... says the brembo rotors will be here tomorrow. my green numbers tape and solotime licence plate frame that says "id rather be autocrossing" should be here too. lol. then i can take the modern muscle frame off the car...



only thing i don't have tracking numbers on is the Stoptech SS lines i bought from BMC...

jontoad wrote:

only thing i don't have tracking numbers on is the Stoptech SS lines i bought from BMC...

Let me know how you like those and how hard they were to install. Those might be on my list for next summer.