Radiator Fans

First I want to apologize if I posted this in the incorrect selection. What is the easiest way for me to check that my radiator fans are working?

Wednesday night my cars engine temp got up 242* and I pulled over immediately when I noticed (really when the car beeped at me). I let the car sit for a couple hours and drove the car home, temps were low at 160-170. I replaced the t-stat with a factory tstat as I had a 180* prior. I drove the car to work the next day and temps stayed around 206-208 during the drive to work (20 mins). However by the time I parked temps got up to 226. I got out to check if the fans were on. They were not on. So I'm thinking my fans may be bad.

I would think they would be on at 226. you can set them to whatever you want with the trinity/predator. Set them for 180 and let it idle to see if they kick on. I'd guess there is a fuse to check as well. I know some people monkey with the relays to have them on when the car is off at the track. At least the failed off and not exploding like mine. I'm meeting a guy at GLD on Wed if it's nice. His dealership is replacing his fans under a recall. My dealership said I wasn't eligible. I'll find out what dealership he is using so you can call. Maybe get it fixed for free?!

here's the dealership.
Riverfront chrysler jeep dodge. They are located at orchard rd and I-88. 630-907-1700

I will try the trinity. Thanks Bill

Did u get air in the system when changing t stat?

I have no clue about the air? How do I check for that? I adjusted the fan settings to 180* and they didn't come on.

The coolant system is a self bleeding system.... all the air would go into the coolant tank... to check the fans, like bill said, let the car get up to temperature and while the engine is running of course, look under the Hood and check if the fans are turning on and off. If not, check the fuse for the fans, or even the fan relay.

Another thing to check, although it might be rare, check the radiator itself and see if its clean. Worst case, you may have some sludge or debris in the radiator blocking off a couple of tubes.... these would be the last things to check though.

firestartr420 wrote:

The coolant system is a self bleeding system.... all the air would go into the coolant tank...  to check the fans,  like bill said,  let the car get up to temperature and while the engine is running of course,  look under the Hood and check if the fans are turning on and off.   If not,  check the fuse for the fans,  or even the fan relay.  

Don't think so bro. I had an air pocket when I changed my stat about 6 weeks ago. Was getting hotter than normal when beating on it. Got the air pocket out and it's been fine

Either way, fans aren't that expensive or hard to change. Thought they were around $100 or so

Will check the fuses tomorrow and for debris. Will start pricing out fans.

there is a bleeder screw on the water pump. you need an allen key to open it. get it up to temp and just loosen that screw a little. If steam comes out, you have air in the system, if coolant comes out you are more than likely fine. If you can't get that screw loose, crack the bolts at the water neck. It's a little more of a mess, but it'll work, probably better than the bleeder. As long as you don't have a large air pocket, the air will work it's way out on it's own.

Yeah, there is a bleeder on the top of the water pump case directly under the throttle body, and it WILL run hot if you dont get the air out, it will "self bleed" VERY slowly, but it will run hot till the air makes its way out, not recomended though to do it that way.

ALSO I JUST had a problem with my sister in laws awd 300, her car overheated, both fan motors had took a shit, one was frozen solis, the other was just bad, come to find out as well, when the motors  were going bad, there was play in the motors themselves and which made the fans rub on the shroud and actually wear the fans really thin and break, so I replaced both motors, new fan blades, the thermostat, and coolant, bled the system, and no problems, also had to replace a big fuse for the fan motors, when they froze it popped the fuse as well....the temp gauge sticks right where it needs to be now, no problems... a shitty chain reaction

Easy way also is when the fans are supposed to be one, get either a test light or volt meter and unplug the fans to see if they are getting power, but it will pop a check engine light for a fan code

Friend of mine just had the fan motor fail on his 2006 jeep GC SRT.There is a 50 amp fuse under the hood that was blown on his.Stuck another one in and it took it out again so we unplugged the fan, put another fuse in and checked power on the wires.Everything was good to that point so we replaced the fan and all is good now.Mopar replacement fan at the dealership was quite expensive even at employee price.He ended up getting on from one of the auto parts stores.

i think that bleeder is simply there just to bleed the water pump itself.... the pump can trap air and won't move the coolant around like it should... its a "open system" though, so any air trapped in the lines or anything like that should push itself out into the coolant tank.

DORMAN Part # 620039 More Info {#5137713AA, 5137714AA, 5137715AA, 5137717AA, 5137717AB} One of our most popular parts
Dual Fan Assembly; Standard and Heavy Duty

$89.79 ROCKAUTO

It should, but it wont, trust me. ONLY if you only mess with the coolant bottle, there wont be air in the system, but if it's cracked open any where else you WILL have to bleed it through that bleeder. I drained my radiator a couple weeks back, and mine was running HOT afterwards, I bled it through that bleeder, let the air out, no problems

VAGABON wrote:

DORMAN Part # 620039 More Info {#5137713AA, 5137714AA, 5137715AA, 5137717AA, 5137717AB}  One of our most popular parts
Dual Fan Assembly; Standard and Heavy Duty

$89.79 ROCKAUTO

Just ordered this on Monday. Got it within 1 day. Now to install or get it installed. I replaced my green fuse (40 amp) as it appeared blown. Still no fans. So I am hoping this new assembly is my savior.

Moparcharger07 wrote:

It should, but it wont, trust me. ONLY if you only mess with the coolant bottle, there wont be air in the system, but if it's cracked open any where else you WILL have to bleed it through that bleeder. I drained my radiator a couple weeks back, and mine was running HOT afterwards, I bled it through that bleeder, let the air out, no problems

Burped mine a couple of times on both cars and neither overheated or came close. Opened at t-stat temp and called for the fans when temps rose. Like clockwork. Couldn't get the bleeder off so I opted to just burp it. No problem since. I did back-fill the radiator on both to minimize the amount of air.

Replaced the fans last night and that solved the issue. Fans come on when they should. Install was very easy and I am not mechanically inclined.

I miss the older cars where you could just pop off the radiator cap.... start the motor.... turn the heater on.... and just top off the coolant levels.... no need for bleeders and shit like that....

firestartr420 wrote:

I miss the older cars where you could just pop off the radiator cap.... start the motor.... turn the heater on.... and just top off the coolant levels.... no need for bleeders and shit like that....

Me too

A.W. wrote:

Replaced the fans last night and that solved the issue. Fans come on when they should. Install was very easy and I am not mechanically inclined.

That is an easy swap out, i did the radiator on my girls Daytona... that sucked ass !

Shawn1112 wrote:

firestartr420 wrote:

I miss the older cars where you could just pop off the radiator cap.... start the motor.... turn the heater on.... and just top off the coolant levels.... no need for bleeders and shit like that....

Me too

DITO !