Time for a Brake Job

After 14k and the rear end collision, I need a brake job.. Pretty sure the rotors are warped and the pads are starting to squeal.

Looking for suggestions from those who have already upgraded. Would like slotted and/or drilled rotors for looks and performance. The performance aspect is essential.

Probably going to do the brake lines for shits and giggles too.

I went with the drilled and slotted rotors from R1. I think you can get them for close to $300 with their group buy. If you go to their site hey cost alot more than if you PM the dude. Then I bought the Hawk HPS pads for the front and that also helped alot with braking. Some people say the drilled parts will crack over time but mine have held up for over a year so far.

I need to do brakes all around. They've help up pretty nice if I say so myself, after 74,000 miles, they've LASTED LONG!!!!! I'm gonna do my tie-rods AGAIN too while I got my wheels off and it's up in the air.

I too need some brakes who is the best to go with?? $$$$ vs, performance

R1 definitely has a good product.. You're definitely getting what you pay for and the group buy pricing that Joe posted up is definitely the way to go..

thanks theu look good and if they last i will be happy

DA H.N.I.C. just bought R1s. He hasn't put them on yet, but he was really happy with the info from R1. Good guidance.

Mad Hatter wrote:

Darrell has some slotted rotors he did.

I got mine on E-Bay from a place called Rennsport but I can't find them there anymore.

I just replaced the front and rear pads, cut the rotors, both outer tie rods, and I also replaced the tension strut/radius arm, and alignment. The ball joint was bad on it making a pop noise over bumps. I did ceramics on all 4 corners, and then a brake flush with new fluid, and bled the brakes, my brakes are WAY better now, and the front end is SO much "tighter" now.

Moparcharger06 wrote:

I just replaced the front and rear pads, cut the rotors, both outer tie rods, and I also replaced the tension strut/radius arm, and alignment. The ball joint was bad on it making a pop noise over bumps. I did ceramics on all 4 corners, and then a brake flush with new fluid, and bled the brakes, my brakes are WAY better now, and the front end is SO much "tighter" now.

Kool when are you doing mine????

Good thing to hear she is tighter now... lol J/K

Went with the R1 drilled / slotted and Hawk pads. I called R1 to order and they helped me decide which rotors to get i.e. slotted only - drilled only - drilled/slotted. R1 is very helpful.

Just a note - saw on the other site a question about which way the slots should face (toward or away from the wheel's rotation). Checked on line and it doesn't matter. Instead it depends on the configuration of the rotor fins/vanes. If they're straight then it doesn't matter. But if they're curved, then they should face in the opposite direction of wheel direction. Hope this helps.

Shawn1112 wrote:

Moparcharger06 wrote:

I just replaced the front and rear pads, cut the rotors, both outer tie rods, and I also replaced the tension strut/radius arm, and alignment. The ball joint was bad on it making a pop noise over bumps. I did ceramics on all 4 corners, and then a brake flush with new fluid, and bled the brakes, my brakes are WAY better now, and the front end is SO much "tighter" now.

Kool when are you doing mine????

LOL No problem, you and anybody is more than welcome to come to my shop and use whatever we got ANYTIME!!! Alignment machine, flush machines (brake, trans, p/s) etc......

elcobra44 wrote:

After 14k and the rear end collision, I need a brake job.. Pretty sure the rotors are warped and the pads are starting to squeal.

Looking for suggestions from those who have already upgraded. Would like slotted and/or drilled rotors for looks and performance. The performance aspect is essential.

Probably going to do the brake lines for shits and giggles too.

I've got the Dak set up with EBC rotors and pads. They stop this 4000 lbs pig with authority. The Greenstuff pad's I have tend to squeal a bit when cold but the stopping power is worth it.

elcobra44 wrote:

After 14k and the rear end collision, I need a brake job.. Pretty sure the rotors are warped and the pads are starting to squeal.

Looking for suggestions from those who have already upgraded. Would like slotted and/or drilled rotors for looks and performance. The performance aspect is essential.

Probably going to do the brake lines for shits and giggles too.

After my track day at Grattan I have been wanting to do the SS brake lines on mine as well as replace the fluid since it got so hot. I am cooncerned with bleeding them with the anti lock and stability control.
Do these make a difference when bleeding the lines?

Axiom wrote:

elcobra44 wrote:

After 14k and the rear end collision, I need a brake job.. Pretty sure the rotors are warped and the pads are starting to squeal.

Looking for suggestions from those who have already upgraded. Would like slotted and/or drilled rotors for looks and performance. The performance aspect is essential.

Probably going to do the brake lines for shits and giggles too.

I've got the Dak set up with EBC rotors and pads. They stop this 4000 lbs pig with authority. The Greenstuff pad's I have tend to squeal a bit when cold but the stopping power is worth it.

I was looking at the EBC rotors myself. I like the black color and heard they were good rotors. WHich ones did you go with from EBC?

clj17 wrote:

Axiom wrote:

elcobra44 wrote:

After 14k and the rear end collision, I need a brake job.. Pretty sure the rotors are warped and the pads are starting to squeal.

Looking for suggestions from those who have already upgraded. Would like slotted and/or drilled rotors for looks and performance. The performance aspect is essential.

Probably going to do the brake lines for shits and giggles too.

I've got the Dak set up with EBC rotors and pads. They stop this 4000 lbs pig with authority. The Greenstuff pad's I have tend to squeal a bit when cold but the stopping power is worth it.

I was looking at the EBC rotors myself. I like the black color and heard they were good rotors. WHich ones did you go with from EBC?

I bought the EBC front Ultimax BlackDash USR slotted rotors for the 97-02 Dakota's. Ran me $170 at the time.

I posted this elsewhere, but this has some great info on brake wear:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

I think I have a warped rotor myself.

Iguanaman wrote:

I posted this elsewhere, but this has some great info on brake wear:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

THAT is a great post, Iguanaman! The SRT engineers DO NOT recomend anything but "stock" pads. They say anything else will degrade breaking performance. It makes sense cuz stock pads are low temp, which is for normal street use. They will stop you better under normal driving conditions. Ceramic and all of those other high temp metal types are for racing and work best under high heat breaking. You get less break dust, but it's harder to stop. I'll learn to deal with the break dust.

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Iguanaman wrote:

I posted this elsewhere, but this has some great info on brake wear:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

THAT is a great post, Iguanaman! The SRT engineers DO NOT recomend anything but "stock" pads. They say anything else will degrade breaking performance. It makes sense cuz stock pads are low temp, which is for normal street use. They will stop you better under normal driving conditions. Ceramic and all of those other high temp metal types are for racing and work best under high heat breaking. You get less break dust, but it's harder to stop. I'll learn to deal with the break dust.

my brakes are warped after my last track session. i didn't cool them even enough. im going with the factory slotted rotors (74 each online) and either a set of hawk hps pads or another set or ebc reds, i havent decided yet. matt robbenson on lxforums.com who road races a lot says the factory rotors last longer before warping than any aftermarket ones he has tried, even R1's.

i only will use hawk hps pads or ebc reds. the yellows are too race tracky for the street and any other pads fade too much when i autocross. the reds are great but they tear up rotors. the hawks are great but dust a lot still.

those posi quiet pads that SRT guys like to use are junk on the track, not safe at all with the way they fade. you can get the bendix pads for cheap for SRT's and they are the dame thing as the stock pads with a different name, made by the same company.

Yeah Jon, it makes sense for you to have something a little more high heat for all of that autocross that you do. Hey, man read a little bit of that article on how to temper the pads, or break them in. Also tells all of the do's and dont's when breaking under high heat conditions. Really informative. Says there is no such thing as warped rotors, only deposits from the pads get on there and form cementite deposits.

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Yeah Jon, it makes sense for you to have something a little more high heat for all of that autocross that you do. Hey, man read a little bit of that article on how to temper the pads, or break them in. Also tells all of the do's and dont's when breaking under high heat conditions. Really informative. Says there is no such thing as warped rotors, only deposits from the pads get on there and form cementite deposits.

yea maybe no such thing as a warped rotor, but ill still always call it that. like he said, i didn't cool them properly last time out. i ran a session and parked the car instead of doing cool down parade laps in the paddock.

Well, one of my next mods will be the Pedders Foundation Kit. Check this out, I'm sure you need it too. http://www.arringtonengines.com/p-939-lx-foundation-bushing-kit.aspx