opinions concerning rear end options.

I have enough saved to do a getrag setup in my car, but I'm not sure I should pull the trigger. I think I should wait until I can do a TC as well. What I really think I should do is save even more and get a 8.8 paramount. I don't know what the end game for my car is going to be, and the 8.8 seems to be the most versatile option? I think the gearing can be changed for almost nothing. If I have intentions of going much farther modding the car, is a custom TC at this point stupid? Is getting the 8.8 with super axles, hubs, and drive shaft now better than getting good enough now, and having to possibly upgrade in the future? What do you think? I emailed Mr. Norm's to start a dialogue with them, but haven't heard back. Are they usually slow to respond?
thanks for looking,
bill

A Getrag LSD is fine at your level and will be good for a long time. ie: heads, cam, blower. The only thing they don't like is dry smokey burn outs, because it's hard on the clutch packs. (which can be upgraded.)

The 8.8 is great if you want to drop 5 grand on a rear. If you want to go that route why not just do a true Ford 9" and a 4 link? I don't know what you have planned, but you would have to be heading in the direction of 600+ RWP to justify going this way. Otherwise it really isn't the way to go, because they are heavy as hell. (Too much unsprung weight) for a lightly modded car.

A higher stall TC is never a bad idea, if you plan on tracking the car.

Figure out what you want to do and call Mr. Norm's at 815-636-2784.

Mr. Norm's Garage & Modern Muscle
601 W. Jefferson
Rockford, IL 61103

I drag race my car full time now and my Getrag is holding up well so far. (light rear) When I decide to replace it I will weigh out a decision between a Ford 9" and an 8.8 w/Detroit Locker in it w/410 or so gears.

By the time I'm done I could be past 600 hp, but more than likely not. I think you've swung me back into the 3.73 getrag. I can probably do that and a TC for less than the paramount alone. That 8.8 Tru trac is a slick unit though. Can the gears in a getrag be switched for a different ratio? I'll give Mr. Norm's a call, like I said I emailed them on tues. and didn't hear back. I'll give them a chance to talk me back into the paramount, then spring on something.
bill

600 and below is just the ticket for a Getrag. You have to change out the center section to change gear ratios. 3.73 is a great choice.

i am not a fan of clutch pack rear ends. i have a wavetrac gear driven LSD going in mine with 3.55 gears. i will upgrade my axles when i can.

a 215 rear with a wavetrac/quaife with DSS axles would be better than a Getrag but it would cost you more. wavetrac rears have a lifetime warranty, quaife does not anymore.

people go with getrag's because of cost since you get stronger axles and rear end housings with it. you can upgrade the clutch packs to make it act almost like a spool, but its still clutch packs. clutches wear out.

obviously the 8.8 or for 9inch would be the most bullet proof option.

another plus for the paramount. the tru trac is all gears. a wavetrack is kind of like a locker? waves instead of dove tails? Since the last post I've went back to the saving more for the 8.8 and a paramount TC. It might not be till christmas, but I'll regret not going this route.

I have a very accentuated tick coming from the engine, and a coolant leak somewhere so I might not have money for anything shortly. I haven't had time to asses the situation, but I'm not real happy about it. more tomorrow.

bill

Are you sure it's not the normal Hemi tick??? How do you know your leaking coolant, do you see it on the ground?? I ask because if I'm not mistaking, the cap on the overflow is or was a common problem for leaks

it's louder than the normal tick. I only noticed it at idle in the driveway, and haven't driven it yet. The coolant is about 4 inches below the min cold line. there is about 1/4 of coolant on the driveway, and looks to be some puddled in the plastic belly pan. It also looks like some possibly dried up around the t stat housing. I just half ass detailed the engine bay last weekend, so I should be able to tell where it's coming from tomorrow. I'll check out the overflow, maybe get it tested if I don't find something obvious. I've seen a lot of leaking radiators online, wouldn't be worst case, but sure would suck. I was tearing up an empty Border's parking lot when I went to get the wife a burrito. The first time I've turned esp all the way off in a few months, I hope I didn't blow something up.
bill

then again, if I did blow something up may give me an excuse to put her back together a little bit different.
bill

Did you use new gasket with the 180 T-stat, and are you sure you put it in correct??

I did, but that was over a year ago. Jet 180 and it came with a gasket. If I can find a gasket locally I'll switch it out and hope thats the problem. I also had it at the dealership for an oil change last weekend, can you think of anything they may have inadvertently fucked up? The new noise worries me more than if it was just a leak.
bill

yea, Shawn is right on that coolant overflow cap being a known issue for leaks. if yours is not black plastic and round it is the old silver stamped design. obviously if your leak is near the thermo water neck its not that but you might want to get a new cap anyways. they are cheap from the dealer. mine was leaking and needed to be replaced 2 years ago.

rusty color stains near your control arms or front sub frame can also be the liquid from your motor mounts. i trashed my stock motor mounts last year. i thought it was coolant on my frame, ended up being rusty fluid from in the motor mounts.

also check down in front of the radiator. there are some plastic pieces that are known to rub the radiator down there and eventually can cause leaks.

as for the noise, i dunno. it could be many things.

also here is some reading about how the wavetrac works and the benefits of it over a quaife or other gear driven lockers.

http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm