Brakes Squeal from rear

So my rear brakes are starting to squeal from the little tabs hitting the rotor. I've just hit 40k miles (I put on the last 16.5k since I bought in April). I'm assuming this has the original pads.

About how much pad material is left when those tabs start hitting? It gets worse out of a tight turn when the wheels get loaded.

If I need pads and/or rotors any suggestions? I'd never pass up a chance for some greater stopping power especially if it saves money vs. OEM.

I'm not comfortable doing my own brakes I see folks recommend the Exhaust Works on North Aurora I know they do brakes can anyone vouch for them? I know people love them for exhaust work and they're pretty close to me.

if you can bend the tabs back a bit you should be good for a few thousand more miles. that should be enough to hold you over till we have a install party. we should be able to help you do brakes at one of our install parties...

Thanks for the advice.

This might be a silly question but are there tabs on the front too? I'm assuming when the pads really wear down there will be lots of squeal on the rear is that right? Is it normal for the rears to go before the front (can't tell if I'm all stock but it looks to be).

I'll get a needle nose pliers and see if I can bend back the tabs, are they only on the outside? I can see that they're contacting the rotor a bit.

I've put 16,600+ miles on since April or about 350 miles a week hopefully I make it!

I just don't have the confidence to tackle brakes without someone who has done it before. I only have enough tools and know how to get me in trouble! The most ambitious thing I've done to the Charger is swap out the sway bar bushings tracking down front end noises and the majority of the noise was front my front driver's side spring (smothering the rubber cup/spring with mobile 1 grease quieted my front end groan).

So I took a closer look this morning and my rear driver's side outside pad is much more worn than the passenger side. The wear tab/scrapper was occasionally contacting the driver's side but there was at least 1/16th of an inch or maybe more on the passenger side and you could see the pad material was thicker.

Is this normal for uneven wear on the rear brakes? Of course I can't see the inside pads.

I bought the car with about 23k miles now it has a bit over 40k. Did the previous owner do a bunch of brake torque burnouts? Does the driver's rear pad get extra abuse in that situation?

Just curious...

I think I wiggled the tab back just a little I don't want to bend it that much but I also don't want to squeal around the 'hood either

We'll see how it holds up I might have to get that brake job before Spring!

Back to my rotor/pad recommendations, I haven't priced stock rotors/pads but do I get better performance from R1 or Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads (or Red Stuff) for about the same cost?

I know it depends how you're using the car, this again is a daily driver no track use I'd just like to know if I can get better performance than stock for about the same money. I'm not too concerned with brake dust or a bit of noise. In other words I'd rather stop a few feet shorter from 70 mph than have zero dust/noise.

Thanks guys you're a wealth of knowledge.

I have the R1 slotted rotors and I have their cheaper pads because I didn't want the brake dust. There is more brake dust with their better pads. I love them and can really tell the difference. Not sure what the price is vs Oem. Not sure if your a member on the Z, but they have a group buy that's like 2yrs old. Call them and they will still honor the price. Yes it's unusual for the rears to go first, maybe the fronts have been replaced before and that's the reason why??? I wouldn't pay more than $100 labor for the install if you are providing your own brakes for front and back. I could do it a couple of hrs in my garage, a shop should be able to do it in 1 hr. Pretty simple install

Thanks Shawn.

My car was sold as certified used (barely in the window as an 06). When they certified it they did some normal things like tie rod ends and the transmission o-ring and new tires but they didn't touch the brakes.

My car only had 23k on it but I guess the guy could have gotten front pads prior to selling/trading it in.

Is there any issue in replacing just the rear rotors/pads? I've always though you treat front and back as a separate set.

That reminds me that my certification runs out in June I should have my local dealer do a through inspection in Spring to see if any warranty work is needed before I lose the warranty.

The R1 slotted rotors is what I'd lean towards just looking for an improvement over stock without too many tradeoffs and similar price.

Hopefully someone else can chime in with pad recommendations again in order of importance 1. performance 2. noise 3. dust for price similar to stock. I don't need track material as long as it will stop once really well I should be good!

Yes you can treat the fronts and rears separate. Like I think what happened in your case, someone probably replaced the fronts, which is very common. I think if you go the R1 route and only do the rears you will not feel the difference. My thought is you would have to do fronts and rears if you go the R1 route. If you stay with OEM, then sure just do the rears. I want to say I paid under $500 for R1 rotors and pads for front and rear.