what's the best oil ?

The most important thing to understand when it comes to any lubricant is what is it made from and what are the advantages and or disadvantages to it.

Most people use the word synthetic and yet do not comprehend what it means.

Synthetic only means synthesized molecule structure. Therefore we can make synthetic out of any base stock. So with that in mind, it is important to realize what typical off the shelf synthetics are made of. It is called Poly Alpha Olefin or PAO.

This is mainly derived from condensed natural gas in to precipitate. This base stock is then used to make the engine oils that so many people here are using. 86% of all the PAO is made by Exxon/Mobil. So many "private" competing brands are actually the same base materials. The only thing these companies change is the additive packages.....kinda like a shell game.

The positives of a PAO oil are pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability compared to typical mineral oils. They are however, very aggressive on seals and their solubility...ability to suspend additive package is is not very good at all.

As the specs for the new engine oils have changed.....Ilsac-GF-5 and API-SN, the reduction in zinc and phosphorous along with the increase in Molybdenum Disulfide and Boron are pervasive.

What is less known is that although the volatility of the synthetics is better....in the 8 to 15% range, that is still 33 oz per 7 quart change. Still aggressive on seals, small molecule structure for gasoline mileage over longevity. After all, there is no warranty on oils anyway. Also, these Ilsac and api specs only cover completely stock cars. Once you get into mods that change the systems, all bets are off on the length of time something will last. This is why when you go to the dealership and they find out you have an aftermarket or modified whatever, they immediately exempt warranty coverage for that system because you have modifed it from oem!

Instead, when we make the QuantumBlue, we take into consideration all of the aspects pertaining to your car into that custom blend. What temps is it going to encounter, what rpms is it going to be subjected to, is it going to sit 6 months or is it driven every day. More highway or more city or combination. Does your state use salt on the road and is the car driven in it? What mods do you have etc.

We don't use Moly or Boron. We use high zinc and phosphorous, magnesium and calcium carbonate and adjust the compounds for your car.

Here is an example of Mobil 1 at 4,900 miles:



Here is 4 QuantumBlue samples on the same type of car.



Notice the differences in Iron (block), Chromium (rings), Lead (bearings), and Nickel (valves)

The differences are dramatic because we protect these engines so much better with our custom blends.

Also, our volatility....or what ends up in your catch can.....is 1.5 to 3% vs typical synthetics of 8-15% and mineral at 32 to 35%.

There is a significant difference in how it runs in your car, the sounds that it makes, and the reductions in wear it provides.


I thought this was a better discussion than typical opinion.

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

Thanks for weighing in, Brian.

I felt smoother and slightly quicker engine response and cooler running temps.

moros323 wrote:

I felt smoother and slightly quicker engine response and cooler running temps.

Using what?

Quantum blue

^^Amesoil^^

I use K-Y Intrigue. It has excellent viscosity and lasts long. I hardly ever have to change it out..just add a little every so often and you're good to go! You can really feel the difference when accelerating! Saves on filters too!

-vagrant

Almost evertime I start my engine, it results in a WOT pass at the track, or on the dyno. I have always used the oil recomended in the book. My motor has never used a drop inbetween oil changes to this day. Mobil 1 for me.

Yeah I can't say as I have had to add any oil either and it has been over 10000 since last change...and I drive it like I stole it lol

moros323 wrote:

Yeah I can't say as I have had to add any oil either and it has been over 10000 since last change...and I drive it like I stole it lol

I drive mine like JOEY stole it...so if I get pulled over, I can blame Joey.

Iguanaman wrote:

moros323 wrote:

Yeah I can't say as I have had to add any oil either and it has been over 10000 since last change...and I drive it like I stole it lol

I drive mine like JOEY stole it...so if I get pulled over, I can blame Joey.

Dave is gonna be here all week, folks! Enjoy.

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Iguanaman wrote:

moros323 wrote:

Yeah I can't say as I have had to add any oil either and it has been over 10000 since last change...and I drive it like I stole it lol

I drive mine like JOEY stole it...so if I get pulled over, I can blame Joey.

Dave is gonna be here all week, folks! Enjoy.

Tip your waiters; try the veal.

Illinois Chaos wrote:

Iguanaman wrote:

moros323 wrote:

Yeah I can't say as I have had to add any oil either and it has been over 10000 since last change...and I drive it like I stole it lol

I drive mine like JOEY stole it...so if I get pulled over, I can blame Joey.

Dave is gonna be here all week, folks! Enjoy.

Ha ha ha ha awesome!

I'm going to start using Royal Purple too....@ Horse Power TV that's all they use.

i use Quantum Blue oils and AcesIV Fuel Additive in my Daytona. really like the oil and nice thing is that you can get a oil analysis done on it when you get your oil changed so you can see how it is reacting to your engine. but have heard RP and Amesoil are good also.