jontoads whips

haven't done it yet. i messed with the EQ's on Sunday, but i was being too lazy to hide the wires and mount it. probably gonna rig up something with a backing plate under the foam, then just stick bolts up through it to put lock nylon lock nuts on. it's not like it needs a shit ton of clamping force, just needs to not slide around.

Use velcro works perfect and don't have to put holes in anything

i don't know how well velcro adhesive backing will stick to the foam over time... but i might pick up some industrial strength velcro from menards then and try that. i bought that stuff for clip boards back at the tire shop and it is pretty damn strong on the adhesive and the velcro itself.

jontoad wrote:

i don't know how well velcro adhesive backing will stick to the foam over time... but i might pick up some industrial strength velcro from menards then and try that. i bought that stuff for clip boards back at the tire shop and it is pretty damn strong on the adhesive and the velcro itself.

Are you going to the brewery cruise on Saturday?
I got some good velcro at work I can bring you.
If so send me a text before noon tomorrow to remind me just in case I dont see your reply on here

yea, i'm going. if you bring it, thanks and i appreciate it! if you forget, no big deal.

added one more small 2 channel amp for the dash speakers because i wanted to adjust their gain by themselves. (Shawn i know what your gonna say, but i got last kicker amp for 50 bucks refurbished. so i didn't feel like spending extra to just swap my 4 channel for a 5 channel instead).

i put that amp above the truck floor by the sub amp. that other interior amp is still below the trunk floor. but i think i want to move it up above the trunk floor by the other two. more air is always better for them. i just didn't feel like doing it today.

Lol
How does it sound?

sounds great, only one problem. when the car is off and the headunit is off the canbus signal wakes up the amp sometimes and i get some clicking through the speakers.

the stock speakers did it too, but it was so quiet you could barley hear it. now that they are all amped it is really noticeable.

its something all the kicker package SRT's do. stock you can hear it from the sub. people call it the heartbeat. the audio equipment in the car stock powers on when you open the trunk, unlock or lock the car, ect... even if the headunit is off. i dunno why they set it up that way.

i'm going to have to get a remote wire trigger like a Pac TR4 instead of using hi level inputs for amp turn on or something.

the PAC TR4 remote trigger came in yesterday. threw it in today, switched the amps to low level input mode and all is well. amps turn off a second or two after the car and no more CANBUS noises.

i only wired the cabin amps into the remote trigger. so the sub amp is still on high level inputs, but i didn't want to wire too many amps to the trigger. the sub "heartbeat" when the car is off doesn't bother me. it's been there since stock.

the PAC TR4 was super easy to wire and only like 15 bucks. best part is you could just tap the amp for the wiring. yellow tapped on the 12+ wire port on the amp, black tapped the ground wire port, Blue went to remote port on the amp, Green piggy backed to Left front positive speaker wire for the turn on signal.

officially done modding audio stuff for now. gotta save for heads, a tune, and a couple golf clubs i want. lol.

Very nice.

passed emissions today. this was my second attempt this month. i had to buy the Big Daddies Garage angled o2 CEL fixes to pass. i highly recommend them if you have to pass Illinois emissions with highflow or catless mids and are popping code P0420 or P0430.

forgot to post this last week.

2 weeks ago i found a crack in the face of my subwoofer. i guess something hit the face of it while i was cornering too fast or something. i didn't have a protective grill on it, but i didn't have a problem for like 5 years until now so it had a good run i guess.

long story short i probably could have saved this one with some epoxy, but i just bought a new one anyways for two reasons. 1. the sub i had was dual 2 ohm voice coils which really can't be wired to be the ideal load for the amp i have running it since you can only wire it to be 1 ohm or 4 ohm total. 2. looking at epoxy on it would drive me nuts and look ghetto.

so i bought the 4 ohm dual voice coil version i should have had in the first place and wired it to be 2 ohm to be the proper setup for the amp. i also added a protective grill so i don't chance cracking it again. it does sound much more tight and clear being the correct ohm load. so it is an upgrade in sound even though it is the same brand and size sub. at least that made me feel less bummed about cracking the old one.

i might try to fix the old one and put it in the truck though.


old sub all crack a lacka-ed....




new sub with protective grill...

Was that the sub I sold you?
Or did I only sell you the amp?

you sold me the amp. the sub i got online. i get a lot of stuff from hifisoundconnection refurbished. it's like half the price and i have never had a problem with their stuff. it has always looked brand new.

Well that amp has to be close to 8yrs old and still going.

Shawn1112 wrote:

Well that amp has to be close to 8yrs old and still going.

not showing any signs of slowing down. lol. with the right ohm sub it sounds better than ever.

haven't updated this thread in like 2 years so here are a few recent updates and recent pictures.  

updates on the truck-

the truck got hit back in October. unfortunately they had to replace my all black projector headlights with the black projector housings with the chrome projector bezel since the all black ones were discontinued by dodge. when i got it back from the shop i decided to do a few things to it. in the last couple weeks i did-

- already installed
1. Edge/Diablo Pulsar inline PCM
2. Magnaflow exhaust

- sitting here waiting for me to install
1. Hellwig front and rear swaybars
2. Putco ProLux Zero Space LED headlight bulbs.

i'm going to order the McGauntys 2/4 deluxe drop kit before spring too. the one with the front drop spindles.



the car has been in storage since October, but i did just install a Trufiber hood before it went into storage. it's the carbon fiber version of the factory hood. i chose the Trufiber one because it was the only carbon fiber version of the SRT hood that uses the factory scoop bezel and it has ducting built into it that routes to the area aftermarket intakes sit to make them into ram air intakes. i wrapped it to the first body line in vinyl that matches the factory brilliant black paint. i used the striker plates from the gloss black mopar hood pin kit and replaced the silver pins and locks with black pins and locks from another hood pin kit so it would be all black. i also earlier this year replaced the factory rear spoiler with a carbon fiber one. i'm trying to make it so it looks somewhat close to stock and all black from far away, but then you see all the carbon fiber parts when you get closer to the car. i did finally replace the factory head unit with a pioneer MVH 2300 NEX android headunit and all the speakers in the car are JL audio now too, those kenwood door speakers i had just weren't cutting it. i managed to fit JL C2 3way 6x9's with huge ass magnets into the front doors. Hellcat 6 piston brembo's and 2 piece rotors were added back in the spring of this year too.

the only mods i have sitting here for the car i haven't installed yet are a pedal commander, new fender stripes to continue them back over the hood where they were before, and Trufiber's windshield washer sprayer relocation kit.

Nice work Jon, looks good.

Nice work JT.